For this setup guide we will use the Nissan Skyline GTR GT3 around the Euro Speedway. Firstly we need to understand what sort of track surface are we going to be racing on to know just how we would like the car to behave around this track, now from my first outlap i knew that the track was very abrasive and also very slippery, i felt that the car needed to first get the tyres up to temperature before i could even nail the throttle. So now we know what track we dealing with. Next driving out on an installation lap checking the layout it’s clear that this track is all about a good combination between mechanical grip and aerodynamic grip, the reason for the good mechanical setup is to aid in the low speed corners where you do not want to spend more time than you should fighting the car for stability into and out of those slow 1st or 2nd gear corners, then the aero package needs to be just right to balance the car as you get onto the throttle out of those very lose 3rd gear corners other than that there is not much more to add with regards to a lap around this circuit.
Let’s start with the suspension on the front
· Springs: 240NM spring stiffness is at this value to assist in keeping the yaw rate (the attitude of the car diving forwards under braking) down to a minimum under hard braking, normally we find that the car tends to lend too much on the front wheels which then leaves us with a balance that’s too slow to react when we get back onto the throttle. What we end up with is a car that’s nervous under braking on the rear and also when jabbing the throttle. It’s also important to note that driving a front engine car generally requires more of a stiffer setup in the front because of the weight of the engine on the front axle, in the GTR’s case the engine sits just behind the front axle and the gearbox in front of the rear axle.
· Dampers: Bump 12, Rebound 15, Bump is the setting we use to slow down (higher value) or Speed up (lower value) the rate at which the spring compresses during either under braking or the way a car negotiates bumps or curbs on the track. Round on the other hand is the speed at which we want the spring to return to its normal position, for example we just braked hard into a corner and the font end is still loaded, once we want to get back onto the throttle exiting the corner and the front is heavily loaded we can choose how quickly we want the weight to shift to the rear under acceleration by decreasing the value we will get the rear to grip much quickly and by increasing the value we do this to try and keep more weight on the front initially to help over steer the car out of the corner.
· Camber: In GT3 cars I like to use less than normal because the tires are wide and running a lot of negative camber generally makes the car difficult under braking but at the same time fast when cornering, and then camber setting goes hand in hand with how much antiroll bar you tend to use. Also remember that your tyres last longer using less camber. Good place to start is -3
· Antiroll bar: In the front if you are going with stiffer springs and you are using the stiff spring in the front to prevent the rear end lifting a wheel then you can start by using around 100NM upwards depending on how much curb you will want to use, also remember that if you decide to use more negative camber than -3 go set you antiroll bar below 100NM
· Toe: I normally try not to get to use too much in a GT3 car because we are racing long distances and going beyond -0.3 just starts to use up the tyres so much faster during the race but during qualifying I don’t see any problems with wanting to put as much heat as possible into the tyres for that ultimate lap during qualifying.
· Ride Height: Always try to raise the car between 1cm and 1.5cm if you planning on attacking curbs, going off track, using low front spring stiffness or racing tracks like Nordschleife. Make sure that you front splitter is not holding you back on straights by dragging on the ground over bumper in the road, you could lose top speed because on this very issue.
Now the rear, we can use the same principles as the above method but as I said earlier that the gearbox on the Nissan GTR sits before the rear axle so the car is well balance as a racing chassis right front the start so the only tweaks need are to apply the same setting as the front but go a value lower.
· Springs: 220NM
· Damper: Bump 8, Rebound 9
· Camber -2.5 (remember the tyres are wide)
· Antiroll Bar: 100NM
· Toe: 0.09
· Ride height: Above 8cm because this tack requires a wing setting of 4 and we need ground clearance and to put a little more weight on the front.
Brakes are really up to you and how much you tend to corner using brakes on entry, a great place to start is 95% power and 55 front 45 rear.
Rear wing 4 for the race and 2 during qualifying
Traction control start with 30% and see how it goes for you, the more traction control you use for slow corners the more under steer you will have during high speed corners so there is a tradeoff.
And that’s it! That’s my guide to setting up the Nissan GTR GT3 around Lausitz Ring!
Good Luck and enjoy Valentino